Alpargata (Espadrilles)

In a context where walking barefoot was common, and clogs were reserved for harsh weather, these handmade shoes based in imported raw materials, becoming an economical and versatile solution. The municipality of Azkoitia –located in the upper Urola river valley—, became the epicenter of this industry, concentrating the best esparto makers, who worked in the streets using tables and tools that are today considered historical heritage. Production involved men, women, and children and represented a trade that moved from traditional crafts to the beginnings of industrialization.

Looms played a crucial role in the manufacture of espadrilles, being essential for producing the heels and uppers. Since the beginning of the 20th century, looms have been used to weave materials such as linen, cotton, and silk, allowing threads of assorted colors and textures to be combined, adding cultural value to the product.

The industrialization of the textile and footwear sector in the Basque Country began in the 19th century. In Gipuzkoa, specifically in the industrial Errenteria –near the border with France—, several textile factories emerged between 1845 and 1859, where many women worked. In fact, women played a crucial role in the textile and footwear industry during the 19th and 20th centuries in Gipuzkoa. There is no data available on the number of women dedicated to the manufacture of espadrilles. However, most of the looms at the Sociedad de Tejidos de Lino factory, also known as “La Fábrica Grande” or “Fabrika Handia” in Basque, in Errenteria, were operated by women. “Fabrika Handia” was established in 1845, marking the beginning of industrialization in the village. By 1850, it had already employed five hundred workers.